Wednesday, May 25, 2011

No Soup for You! Week and the "Ultimate" Cream of Tomato Soup

Happy 40th Post, everyone!  I actually did not commemorate my 1-year anniversary in April, so I thought I would celebrate a different milestone.  I noticed when I logged in that I had written 39 posts, so this one is my 40th.  It's been wonderful writing about the food I've cooked and the experiences I have had in the kitchen over the past year.  Let's hope this year averages closer to a post a week!

Now, to the topic at hand:  soup.  My No Soup for You! week continues with one of my absolute favorite soups.  Growing up, I loved Campbell's Tomato soup more than anything in the world.  I'd make an entire can and armed with saltine crackers and lots of black pepper, I would eat the whole thing myself.  Marshall's not such a huge fan.  He's said, on more than one occasion, that Campbell's Tomato Soup tastes like the sauces used for Chef Boyardee.  While I've never actually had Chef Boyardee, I can't exactly tell him that it doesn't, but this sounds like an insult so I take offense.  So, when I saw the special "Soups & Stews" issue of Cook's Illustrated earlier last year and it contained a recipe for cream of tomato soup--excuse me, ULTIMATE cream of tomato soup--I knew I had to make it and show Marshall that tomato soup can be creamy and delicious.

I was not led astray, nor would I expect any less from my new favorite cooking magazine.  While there were far too many steps in this recipe than I care for, the result was far better than I could have imagined.  It was meaty, sweet, and silky smooth.  The flavor was the most savory I have ever tasted coming from tomatoes, but it still retained that lovely sweetness that comes from tomatoes, as well.  I think a lot of that sweetness comes from the use of whole canned tomatoes, plus tomato paste.  Of course, there is sugar in the recipe, but it is a means to caramelize the tomatoes as they roast in the oven.  I will say this, though, that step is a pain in the ass.  I ended up with what I feel was far too few tomatoes, by the time I was done seeding them and laying them out on a cooking sheet.  I also didn't seem to get the kind of caramelization that I was originally expecting, so I have a feeling I might've overcooked them.  However, this did not detract from the end result.  This soup was definitely the highly sophisticated city relative of its Campbell's canned country bumpkin, but both are equally warming of the soul.  They say chicken soup is the food of the soul, but my soul'll take tomato soup any day.

Bonus time!
So, what does everyone think of when they think tomato soup?  Grilled cheese, right?  Right.  Well, with a sophisticated cream of tomato soup like this, we needed a sophisticated sandwich.  American singles and white bread were not going to cut it with this bowl.  I turned to this one sandwich that Marshall and I absolutely adore.  It's sweet and salty, buttery and just incredibly delicious:  Ham, Manchego, and Fig Tartines.  Leave it to my Gourmet magazine (RIP) to have a last page of the September 2008 to hide these gems of sandwiches.  The French tartine is an open-faced sandwich, but the recipes on this page are far from the original.  This particular sandwich that we enjoyed with our tomato soup leans more toward the Iberian Peninsula, with the ham and manchego cheese.  The fig, too, is very Spanish, and I could definitely see something like this on a tapas menu somewhere in Spain.  I don't know if I could fully explain the richness that is this sandwich.  The baguette, toasted, mingles with the fig (mixed with butter, of course) and infuses the sharp cheese and finally there's this salty jolt from the ham (in this case prosciutto; serrano would be your true Spanish alternative).  The sweet and salty was a great companion to the rich and savory tomato soup.

If you're feeling homesick, but want still want to wear your tiara (or monocle), this is your meal.

No Soup for You! Week continues...Up next time is my personal all-time favorite soup for eating and freezing:  Lentil (Italian-style)!

Ultimate Cream of Tomato Soup
Serves 4

2 (28-ounce) cans Whole Tomatoes Packed in Juice, drained, 3 Cups juice reserved, and tomatoes seeded
1-1/2 Tablespoons Dark Brown Sugar
4 Tablespoons (1/2 stick) Unsalted Butter
4 Shallots (large), minced
1 Tablespoons Tomato Paste
Pinch of Ground Allspice
2 Tablespoons Unbleached All-Purpose Flour
1-3/4 Cups Low-Sodium Chicken Broth
1/2 Cup Heavy Cream (you could easily substitute with Half-and-Half)
2 Tablespoons Brandy or Dry Sherry
Kosher Salt, to taste
Cayenne Pepper, to taste

1.  Adjust oven rack to upper middle position and heat oven to 450F; line rimmed baking sheet with foil.  Spread tomatoes in single layer on foil and sprinkle evenly with brown sugar.  Bake until all liquid has evaporated and tomatoes begin to color, about 30 minutes.  Let tomatoes cool slightly, then remove from from the baking sheet and transfer to a small bowl; set aside.
2.  Heat butter over medium heat in a medium, non-reactive, saucepan until foaming; add shallots, tomato paste, and allspice.  Reduce heat to low, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until shallots are softened, about 7-10 minutes.  Add flour and cook, about 30 seconds.  Whisking constantly, gradually add broth; stir in reserved tomato juice and roasted tomatoes.  Cover, increase heat to medium, and bring to a boil; reduce heat back to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, to blend flavors, about 10 minutes.
3.  Strain mixture into medium bowl; rinse out saucepan.  Transfer tomatoes and solids in strainer to blender; add 1 cup strained liquid and purée until smooth.  Place puréed mixture and remaining strained liquid in saucepan, add cream and heat over low heat until hot, about 3 minutes.  Note:  I avoided all this back-and-forth by simply using a stick- or immersion-blender directly in the pan.  You won't get as smooth of a consistency, but it's pretty darn close.
4.  Off heat, stir in brandy or sherry; season to taste with salt and cayenne and serve immediately.
Credit:  Cook's Illustrated:  Soups & Stews 2010, p. 27.

Ham, Manchego, and Fig Tartines
Serves 8 (snack)

1/2 Stick Unsalted Butter, softened
2 Tablespoons Fig Preserves or Jam
1 (24-inch) Baguette, quartered crosswise, then each quarter halved horizontally and lightly toasted
6 ounces Serrano Ham or Prosciutto, sliced thin
1/4 lb Manchego Cheese, thinly sliced
Extra-Virgin Olive Oil, for drizzling

Stir together butter and fig preserves/jam.  Spread mixture on baguette, then make open-face sandwiches with ham and cheese.  Drizzle with oil and season with freshly ground black pepper.
Credit:  Gourmet, September 2008, p. 164.

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